Showing posts with label embroidery. Show all posts
Showing posts with label embroidery. Show all posts

Monday, March 11, 2013

El Istmo de Tehuantepec y el vestido de tehuana.


Una Tehuana en el mercado 

El Istmo de Tehuantepec representa la distancia más corta entre el Golfo de México y el Océano Pacífico. El Istmo de Panamá es más corto pero se conecta el mar Caribe al océano Pacífico. Antes de la apertura del Canal de Panamá, era una ruta de transporte principal conocida como la Ruta de Tehuantepec. El nombre proviene del náhuatl, tecuani-tepec, que significa cerro del jaguar.  En su punto más estrecho, el istmo es de 192 km a través del Golfo de México a la Laguna Superior en la costa del Pacífico.  La Sierra Madre se convierte en una meseta, cuya altitud en el punto más alto, Chivela Pass, es de 224 m. El istmo y la brecha entre la Sierra Madre de Oaxaca y la Sierra Madre de Chiapas dividen geográficamente Norteamérica de Centroamérica. Geológicamente, la división entre la placa tectónica de Norteamérica y de Centroamérica, se encuentra en Guatemala, más al sur que el Istmo de Tehuantepec. 


The Isthmus of Tehuantepec represents the shortest distance between the Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific Ocean. The Isthmus of Panama is shorter but it connects the Caribbean Sea to the Pacific Ocean.  Prior to the opening of the Panama Canal, it was a major shipping route known as the Tehuantepec Route.  The name comes from the Nahuatl, tecuani-tepec, which means jaguar hill. At its narrowest point, the isthmus is 192 km across from the Gulf of Mexico to Laguna Superior on the Pacific coast.  The Sierra Madre becomes a plateau, whose elevation at the highest point, Chivela Pass, is 224 m.  The isthmus and the break between the Sierra Madre de Oaxaca and the Sierra Madre de Chiapas geographically divide North America from Central America.  Geologically, the division between North America and Central America tectonic plates lies in Guatemala, farther south than the Isthmus of Tehuantepec.

A Tehauana riding a moto-taxi

La Selva Zoque en la región centro-oriental del istmo es un área de gran importancia ecológica, la mayor área de selva tropical en México con la mayor parte de la biodiversidad terrestre en México. La región del istmo está caliente y palúdica, con excepción de las zonas abiertas, donde los vientos del Océano Pacífico hacen el clima relativamente fresco y saludable. La precipitación media anual en el Atlántico o el lado norte es de cuatro metros. El lado Pacífico tiene un clima más seco. La estrechez del istmo, y la brecha en la Sierra Madre, permita que los vientos alisios desde el Golfo de México a soplar a través del Pacífico. Periódicamente, los vientos fuertes soplan a través del Paso de Chivela y sobre el Golfo de Tehuantepec en la Costa del Pacífico.  Este viento se conoce como Tehuano.

The Selva Zoque in the eastern-central region of the isthmus is an area of great ecological importance, the largest remaining area of tropical rainforest in Mexico with the majority of the terrestrial biodiversity in Mexico. The isthmus region is hot and malarial, except for open areas, where the winds from the Pacific Ocean make the weather comparatively cool and healthy. The annual rainfall on the Atlantic or northern side is four meters.  The Pacific side has a drier climate. The narrowness of the isthmus, and the gap in the Sierra Madre, allow the trade winds from the Gulf of Mexico to blow through to the Pacific. Periodically, strong winds blow through the Chivela Pass and out over the Gulf of Tehuantepec on the Pacific coast. This wind is known as the Tehuano.

An antique 'painted' huipil

An example of a Tehauana dress
La población está compuesta en su mayoría por indígenas zapotecos. Las mujeres dominan en los mercados de Tehuantepec. Conocido como "Tehuanas", estas mujeres son conocidas en todo México por sus coloridos vestidos tradicionales, personalidades asertivas, y relativamente relaciones de igualdad con los hombres. Frida Kahlo adoptaba el vestido tradicional de tehuana como una declaración de solidaridad con estas mujeres. Para velas y otros eventos especiales, las mujeres visten el traje tradicional de Tehuana, que consiste en la ropa pesadamente bordada complementada con cantidades grandes de la joyería de oro.  Esta joyería a menudo contiene monedas antiguas de oro y aretes de filigrana de oro.  La enagua es encaje, mientras la falda y huipil se bordan terciopelo negro. La cubierta de la cabeza, se requiere por el clero para entrar en la iglesia, fue vestido de un niño de encaje usa sobre la cabeza en una de dos maneras, con el cuello del vestido usado alrededor de la cabeza o con la falda lleva como una corona (vea la fotos).  Haga clic aquí para visitar el Museo Textil de Oaxaca.

Antique embroidery

Antique embroidery

The population is composed mostly of indigenous Zapotec people. The women dominate in the markets of Tehuantepec. Known as "Tehuanas", these women are known throughout Mexico for their colorful traditional dress, assertive personalities, and relatively equal relations with men.  Frida Kahlo adopted the traditional dress of Tehuana to express solidarity with these women.  For velas and other special events, women wear the traditional dress of Tehuana, which consists of heavily embroidered velvet garments accessorized with gold jewelry containing old coins and gold filigree earrings. The underskirt is lace while the skirt and huipil are embroidered black velvet.  The head covering, required by the clergy to enter the church, was a lace child’s dress worn over the head in one of two ways, with the top of the dress worn around the head or with the skirt worn as a crown (see photos). For more photos please visit my Picasa web album.
Click here for a visit to the Museo Textil de Oaxaca



Monday, February 4, 2013

Santa Rosa



No muy lejos de Tehuantepec está el pequeño pueblo de Santa Rosa, en el que casi todas las mujeres pasan parte del día bordando blusas encargadas por dueños de tiendas y mujeres de los pueblos vecinos. Hay dos tipos diferentes del bordado, flores hechas por modelos de mano y geométricos hechos con pequeñas máquinas de coser antiguas. Un huipil solo puede usar uno o el otro tipo de bordado o combinar ambos en una sola pieza.  Las imágenes muestran ambos tipos de bordados realizados y las imágines también mostrar otra mujer que trabaja como caricaturista para dibujar los patrones sobre terciopelo utilizando creyón.



Not far from Tehuantepec is the little village of Santa Rosa. Here many of the women spend part of the day embroidering huipils that are commissioned by shop owners and women from the neighboring towns.  There are two different types of embroidery, flowers done by hand and geometric patterns done on small antique sewing machines.  A single huipil may use one or the other type of embroidery or combine both on a single piece.  The pictures show both types of embroidery being made and pictures also show another woman who works as a cartoonist to draw the patterns on the velvet by using crayon. 




En 1851 Isaac Merritt Singer inventó la primera máquina de coser práctica del mundo. Esta máquina tenía una aguja de ojo derecho y un servicio de transporte transversal, un brazo voladizo, una mesa para apoyar el paño, un prensatelas para sujetar el material contra el movimiento ascendente de la aguja y una rueda alimentadora rugosa que se extiende a través de una ranura en la tabla. Movimiento fue comunicada al brazo de la aguja y transporte por medio de engranajes. También tuvo la idea de utilizar un pedal similar de una rueca; otras máquinas en el tiempo utilizan una manivela para generar energía.


In 1851 Isaac Merritt Singer invented the world’s first practical sewing machine.  This machine had a straight eye needle and a transverse shuttle, an overhanging arm, a table to support the cloth, a presser foot to hold the material against the upward stroke of the needle, and a roughened feed wheel extending through a slot in the table. Motion was communicated to the needle arm and shuttle by means of gears. He also had the idea of using a treadle similar to that of a spinning wheel; other machines at the time used a hand crank to generate power.





I have more pictures on my Picasa web album.



Sunday, January 23, 2011

Museo Textil de Oaxaca



In the heart of the city of Oaxaca an eighteenth century mansion houses the Museo Textil de Oaxaca [MTO]. Since its inception in 2008, the MTO’s mission has been to provide a broad view of the designs, techniques and creative processes for the manufacture of textiles from Oaxaca, Mexico and the world. It does this through the ongoing exchange of expertise through conferences, workshops and exhibitions. The museum hosts exhibitions, does conservation and preservation, has an extensive private collection, ho;ds classes and workshops, and has a store which sells, yarn, clothing, and publications. It’s worth your time checking out their website for the photography. Sorry but Google translate can’t do much with the website directly but cutting and pasting text into Google translate works quite well you just need two windows open. If you take the time you’ll get some insight into the sophistication of this project. They constantly change exhibits, run classes and workshops, maintain a museum collection and library, do conservation and restoration, and have a wonderful museum store. If you want a closer look at the museum’s activities they keep a diary El Diario Oficial del MTO. The diary runs through Google translate quite well. It is made up of individual articles on topics such as natural dyes, costumes, articles on individual weaving villages, conservation activities, individual weavers, and a short picture story of the restoration of the building itself. The interests here are both broad and deep. While most of the focus goes to local artisans they have both knowledge and a worldview of textiles. Like good jazz they both respect the tradition while blowing open the boundaries of the art. For some examples of exhibitions you can look here.


The Current exhibition at MTO is called Pinthlia, a contraction of painting (pintura) and spin (hilar). Pinthila is the work of Natividad Amador and is a collaboration with other Oaxacan artists. After studying fine art at the University of Oaxaca Bonito Jaurez shedecided that her painting was lacking something. so she returned to her home in Juchitán where she found what she was looking for in the typical Isthmus textiles with chain stitch embroidery also know as "tejido" (weaving). She developed her technique by finding different angles to the stitch to get her contrast of tones and to generate shades and depth in order to paint in textile. She next established a dialogue with other artists that she considered to be masters. The result is on display until February 6th.



I have large format photos on picasa some with fine detail. The large format photos can be blown up using the magnifying glass icon, then made even larger with the + icon on the upper left. This detail shot of the bird figure gives some idea of the complexity of her work. I hope you take time to look them over. Natividad's work is quite fantastic. Enjoy!