San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya

 

Tlacochahuaya fue establecido por el guerrero zapoteco Cochicahuala, el que pelea en la noche. Primeramente fue entregada como encomienda pero, posteriormente pasó a mano de la Corona.

El convento de San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya fue fundado en 1558 por Fray Jordán de Santa Catalina, un asceta Dominicana, como un refugio para los sacerdotes dominicos con sede en la ciudad de Oaxaca. La iglesia original parecía distinto que el de la estructura que vemos hoy en día.  El desván del coro, decoración de interiores, y la fachada fueron añadidas en el siglo XVIII.  La iglesia se caracteriza por su interior pintado y su órgano histórico.

Subiendo a la galería del órgano

Aunque la fecha exacta de construcción del órgano sea desconocida, probablemente se construyó aproximadamente 1725-35, basados en características de diseño musical, decoración y construcción de la caja similar a otros órganos del tiempo.  Durante la Revolución, muchas iglesias en todo México, incluyendo que en Tlacochahuaya, se utilizaron como cuartel militar, e innumerables órganos perdieron parte o la totalidad de sus pipas, que fueron fundidos por las balas de los soldados.  Después de años del abandono, el órgano de Tlacochahuaya fue restaurado en 1991 por el constructor del órgano Susan Tattershall, gracias al apoyo de la Fundación Pichiquequiti.  Ella fue asistida por José Luis Falcón, y la pintura de la caja fue restaurada por Mireya Olvera.  Un ventilador eléctrico se instaló con el fin de crear un suministro constante de viento para uno de los fuelles, pero los dos fuelles todavía puede ser bombeado a mano si es necesario.  Desde el año 2000, el Instituto de Órganos Históricos de Oaxaca A. C., se ha supervisado el mantenimiento del órgano y ha alentado el uso regular del mismo.  El órgano en Tlacochahuaya no es un instrumento grande, pero las propiedades acústicas inherentes en la arquitectónica de la iglesia mejoran su sonido, para que este pequeño órgano tenga la capacidad de llenar el espacio entero de su música.

Tlacochahuaya was established by the zapoteco warrior Cochicahuala, the one that fights in the night.  Under Spanish control, it was first given as an encomienda, but subsequently passed to the hand of the Crown.

The convent of San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya was founded in 1558 by Fray Jordan de Santa Catalina, a Dominican ascetic, as a retreat for the Dominican priests based in the city of Oaxaca. The original church looked different than the structure we see today.  The choir loft, interior decoration, and façade were added in the early eighteenth century.  The church is noted for its painted interior and its historic organ.

Even though the exact date of construction of the organ is unknown, it was most likely built around 1725-35, based on characteristics of musical design, decoration, and case construction similar to other organs of the time.  During the Revolution, many churches throughout Mexico, including that in Tlacochahuaya, were used as military barracks, and countless organs lost some or all of their pipes, which were melted down for bullets by the soldiers.  After years of abandonment, the Tlacochahuaya organ was restored in 1991 by organbuilder Susan Tattershall, thanks to the support of the Pichiquequiti Foundation.  She was assisted by José Luis Falcón, and the case painting was restored by Mireya Olvera.  An electric blower was installed in order to create a constant supply of wind to one of the bellows, but the two bellows may still be pumped by hand if necessary.  Since the year 2000, the Instituto de Órganos Históricos de Oaxaca A.C. has overseen the maintenance of the organ and has encouraged its more regular use. The organ in Tlacochahuaya is not a large instrument, but the acoustical properties inherent in the architectural of the church enhance its sound, so that this little organ has the capability of filling the entire space with its music.

       

   

Templo del Carmen Alto

Cuando llegaron los españoles a Huaxyacac se encontraron en este sitio, un templo mexica consagrado a Centeotl la deidad del maíz. Recuérdese que esta ciudad fue fundada por los aztecas en el año de 1486 y que en el Cerro del Fortín construyeron una guarnición militar, pero en las faldas se asentó un pequeño poblado mexica, en el que vivian los familiares de los soldados.

En este tiempo, los primeros pobladores españoles de la ciudad establecieron sitios para el culto cristiano. Uno de ellos fue la ermita de la Santa Veracruz, ubicada en este mismo lugar que fuera un importante centro prehispánico. La ermita sustituyó al gran Teocalli de Huaxyacac, donde la ciudad indígena celebraba, cada mes de julio, la gran Fiesta de los Señores en la que se realizaba el sacrificio de una doncella en honor a Centeótl, Diosa del Maíz y la Agricultura. La festividad se cristianizó y se transformó en la actual fiesta de la Guelaguetza o Lunes del Cerro, la cual coincide con las fiestas en honor a la Virgen del Carmen.

El hombre de la publicidad

Los españoles destruyeron la pirámide de Centeotl y con sus piedras edificaron una pequeña ermita dedicada a la santa Vera Cruz. Pero en el año de 1769, los padres carmelitas construyeron el templo y el convento llamado "El Carmen Alto", toda vez que era exclusivo para españoles, porque el otro templo llamado "Del Carmen Bajo", era para los mestizos y los mulatos, los indígenas tenían sus propios templos en la parte Sur de la ciudad. En los trescientos años de la Colonia el sistema de castas era feroz y muy estricto.

El convento, hacia 1856, tras la secularización de las propiedades de la iglesia, pasó a pertenecer al Gobierno Federal; por estos tiempos fue usado para cárcel y cuartel. En 1889 lo adquirió el obispo Eulogio G. Gillow, quien lo restauró para instalar la residencia episcopal; también fue ocupado para un colegio seminario. En 1910 fue escuela nocturna para obreros y escuela primaria superior.

 La Calenda para el Dios de Paradura del Niño

En 1925 pasó nuevamente a ser propiedad federal. Actualmente, en lo que fue el claustro, están instaladas las oficinas del Registro Civil del estado. En sus demás anexos funcionan centros escolares y oficinas federales. El templo se distingue, respecto a los demás templos de Oaxaca, por su pórtico, cuya función es preparar el ingreso a la nave principal.

En el primer domingo de enero es el Dios de Paradura del Niño (Epifanía). Se celebra en todas las iglesias católicas, pero hay una especial Calenda (procesión) en la iglesia del Carmen Alto. La procesión discurre por el centro de la ciudad y el zócalo capitalino y termina en la iglesia. Después de misas dulces se dan a los niños. Todo termina con una exhibición de fuegos artificiales en el Plazuela de Carmen Alto en el lado sur de la iglesia.

When the Spaniards arrived in Huaxyacac they found on this site, a Aztec temple devoted to Centeotl the deity of the corn. It should be remembered that the city was founded by the Aztecs in the year of 1486 and they had built a military garrison on the Hill of the Fortin, and on the lower slopes they established a small Aztec village for the families of the soldiers.

At this time, the first Spanish settlers of the city established sites for Christian worship. One of them was the chapel of Santa Veracruz, located in the same place that was an important pre-hispanic center. The chapel replaced the great Teocalli of Huaxyacac, where each month of July, the indigenous city had celebrated the great Feast of the lords in which there was the sacrifice of a maiden in honor of Centeótl, the goddess of corn and agriculture. The festival was Christianized and transformed in the current holiday of the Guelaguetza or Monday of the Hill, which coincides with the holidays which honor the Virgin of Carmen.

The Spaniards destroyed the pyramid Centeotl and with its stone built a small chapel dedicated to the Santa Vera Cruz. But in the year of 1769, the Carmelite fathers constructed the temple and the convent called 'Carmen Alto', at that time that it was exclusive for Spanish, the other temple called 'Carmen Bajo' was for the mestizos and mulattoes; indigenous peoples had their own temples in the southern part of the city. In the three hundred years of colonial rule the caste system was fierce and very strict.

The convent, about 1856 after the secularization of the properties of the church, passed to the Federal Government and by these times it was occupied by a jail and barracks. In 1889 the bishop Eulogio G acquired and restored it, installing the Episcopal residence. It was also was occupied by a school in 1910 for workers in the evening and a as top primary school.

In 1925 it became again a federal property. Currently, in what was the cloister, are the offices of the Civil Registry. In its other annexes operate schools and federal offices.  The temple is distinguished, in relation to other temples of Oaxaca, by its portico, whose function is to prepare for the entry to the main nave.

Girls want to have fun too

Note the tree and all the cinders in the air;  and wear eye projection and old clothes.

On the first Sunday in January is the Paradura del Niño Dios (Epiphany).  This is celebrated in all catholic churches, but there is a special Calenda (procession) at the Carmen Alto church. The procession winds around downtown and the zócalo and ends at the church. After mass sweets are given to the children.  It all ends with a display of fireworks in the Plazuela de Carmen Alto on the south side of the church.

An angel after being launched

My Picasa web album is here and there are other fireworks pictures, some from Carmen Alto in previous years here.

Templo de San Felipe Neri

Uno de los mas notables monumentos coloniales del siglo XVII, cuya edificación dio principio en 1633, cuando llegaron los fundadores bajo la dirección del presbítero Don Juan de Aragón, quienes organizaron desde Europa la "Pía Unión" o "Concordia" en 1661. Pero quien se distingue por consolidar y robustecer este oratorio, por haber solicitado y obtenido la autorización del papa Clemente XIII, allá en los años de 1728 a 1729, fue el Lic. y presbítero Don Juan Saenz de Leyva Cantabrano y Zorrilla.

Sin embargo la construcción formal comenzó hasta 1733 y terminó el 17 de enero de 1773, excepto los campanarios que datan del siglo XIX, fecha en que se consagró a la virgen del Patrocinio y desde luego al fundador de la congregación San Felipe Neri, cuya imagen se admira en el altar mayor, obra de arte de primera magnitud en donde sobresale el más puro estilo de Churriguería Mexicana.

La hermosa fachada realizada en cantera verde es un vestigio del Plateresco del siglo XVI, aunque el estilo de la construcción en general es barroco. En la parte central de esta fachada aparece en bajo relieve y cantera amarilla San Felipe Neri, con bonete y un libro en la mano que ya no se distingue, tal vez por la acción del tiempo o la destrucción del hombre, ya que este edificio, como otros tantos, han servido de baluarte en las guerras civíles. A esto se debe quizá que los nichos de la portada estén vacíos.

Dignos de admiración son los retablos interiores, en donde se hallan pinturas de Juan de Páez y Agustín de Santaella.

La planta es de una nave con cúpula y crucero, es decir , está dispuesto en forma de cruz latina. Las torres se terminaron en 1803, año en que fueron bendecidas y puede decirse, hasta entonces se dio por terminada la construcción de este templo, en cuyo interior existe un panteón con diez sepulcros en donde yacen los cuerpos de los sacerdotes y fundadores de esta Orden.

En este templo contrajo matrimonio Don Benito Juárez García con Doña Margarita Maza el 31 de julio de 1843.

My translation of the above.

One of the most remarkable monuments of the seventeenth century colonial era, whose construction began in 1633, under the direction of the priest Don Juan of Aragón, who organized in Europe the "Pious Union" or "Concordia" in 1661, but is distinguished by consolidating and strengthening this chapel, having sought and obtained the permission of Pope Clement XIII, in 1728 and 1729.

The formal construction started in 1733 and ended January 17, 1773, when it was consecrated to the Virgin of the of patronage and San Felipe Neri, whose image may be admired in the main altar, a work of art in the style of Mexican Churriguería, which is an architectural style from a family of eighteenth century Spanish architects and sculptors.

The beautiful green stone facade is a vestige of the plateresque style of the sixteenth century, although the style of construction generally is Baroque. In the central part of this front, San Felipe Neri appears in low relief yellow quarry stone, with a bonnet and a book in his hand already indistinguishable, perhaps by the action of time or the destruction of man, since this building, like many others, has served as a bulwark in the civil wars. For this, perhaps, it is why the niches of the front are empty.

Worthy of admiration are the interior alter pieces, where there are paintings of Juan de Páez and Agustín de Santaella. The church is a nave with dome and transept, that is, it is built in the form of a Latin cross. The towers were completed in 1803, when they were blessed  it could be said that the construction of this temple was considered completed. In the interior there is a pantheon with ten tombs where lie the bodies of the priests and founders of the Order.

Here, on July 31, 1843, Don Benito Juarez Garcia married Margarita Maza.

Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption

The Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption (Catedral Metropolitana de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción) is an imposing sight on the Alameda de León in Oaxaca's city center.  The cathedral, whose construction began 1535, had to be extensively rebuilt in 1730 after a series of earthquakes and fires, which explains its solid walls and asymmetrical towers.  The Cathedral is the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Antequera, Oaxaca. During construction the Temple of San Juan de Dios served as the cathedral of the diocese. In 1640 the seat of the diocese was transferred to Our Lady of the Assumption. Due to earthquakes in the 16th and 18th centuries, the cathedral had to be reconstructed several times, with the most recent reconstruction beginning in 1702 and finishing in 1733.

Its facade is made of green cantera stone commonly found in Oaxaca's buildings, and the interior is in Neoclassical style. The altar features a bronze statue of Our Lady of the Assumption (Nuestra Señora de al Asunción) made in Italy during the Porfirio era by Tadoini.  The towers of the cathedral are not the originals, which were destroyed in a 1931 earthquake. In the south tower there is a clock donated to Oaxaca by King Fernando VII.  A chapel at the back of the church, left of the altar, houses the revered crucifix of El Señor del Rayo (Our Lord of the Lightning Bolt), the only piece to survive a fire that started when lightning struck the thatch roof of the original structure.  The second chapel on the right contains the remains of the Cross of Huatulco. Against the west wall of the choir is a locally built baroque pipe organ, parts of which date to 1711-1712, restored in 1997. The interior was plundered during the Wars of Reform, so is not as interesting as the intricate exterior.

The cathedral's attractive Baroque façade includes a fine relief of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary above the central door. The heavy, elaborate frame around the picture and the highly stylized wavelike clouds next to the cherubs are distinctive features of Oaxacan Baroque. An uncommon and quite lovely detail is how the Virgin's cape and its folds are depicted in angular lines and facets.  For more views please visit my picasa web album.

San Juan Bautista Coixtlahuaca

The open air chapel.

There are snake figures on the underside of the arch

Coixtlahuaca was originally founded in the classic period by chocholteca. Nahuatl was the language used throughout the Anahuac from the Classic period.  In Nahuatl, Coixtlahuaca means in the plain of the snakes.  Coixtlahuaca was an important commercial center in the Mixteca.  The market or tinguis performing in Coixtlahuaca had a great influence throughout the Mixteca region. In 1462, it was conquered by the Aztecs.  After the Spanish Conquest, the Dominicans arrived in the area and by 1545, the friar Francisco Marín built the open chapel, with a central arch and four sides, vestry and room for the choir.  Although there is unfortunately no longer the vault, the remains show us the knowledge and mastery of the techniques that were used to carve the stone and construct this chapel.

The main attraction is the Iglesia de San Juan Bautista Completed in 1576, it is of Renaissance style with rose windows, sculptures, and a main entrance with dozens of recesses. It also has a Baroque-style altarpiece (retablo).  On the side of the church facing the open chapel there is a rose window flanked by engraved attributes of the Passion of Christ in the indigenous style of sculpture.

 

The front of the temple has another beautifully decorated rosette and above a sculpture of the Holy Spirit within a rectangle surrounded by busts of four Dominican Saints. 
 Originally
the church must have had two towers of which only one remains.  On the frieze delineated by cornices appears date of 1576, which may have been the year of the conclusion or the dedication of the temple.

The interior has a nave facing the east covered by a vault.  The altar, rebuilt in the seventeenth century, occupies the entire apse and has four floors with four niches, divided by pilasters of twenty compartments.  Unfortunately currently disassembled under a plastic tarp during restoration

In addition, there are two side altars, one dedicated to Our Lady of the Rosary and the other to Our Lady of Atocha, the majority of works are of Andres de la Concha.

San Juan Bautista Coixtlahuaca is located northwest of Oaxaca City, 113 kilometers (70 miles), via highway 131-D bound for Mexico City. Driving time is approximately an hour and a half.

Much of the former convent has now been restored.  For more pictures which can be viewed in larger format please visit my picasa web album.